Portugal’s Northern Coast

With the heat wave still waving, we threaded together seaside retreats to stay cool. Much of the area North of Porto has several towns united by long stretches of rocky shoreline and is part of the Camino Portuguese Coastal Route. We saw many people with a wide range of nationalities, ages, and body shapes in dusty boots, sneakers and sandals with the signature shell swinging from their backpacks. Campgrounds placed signs informing hikers of their whereabouts and we often saw them resting or washing up in campgrounds. They were inspiring. While here, we walked on many trails they followed but always eventually made a u-turn since our possessions are carried in a campervan rather than on our backs.

Our photos (and videos) here

Mindelo

Strong Northern winds made a wind-barrier essential beach-going equipment on many Portuguese shores. Note how many of our beach photos feature sunbathers and even life guards huddled behind them. Often, life guards also wear hooded, head-to-toe windbreakers ensembles. 

We walked to a small mom and pop restaurant right on the beach in this small village of Arvore. A pre-teen boy pulled Dermot’s draft beers and also rang us out. The menu was limited in the veggies department but the seafood was fresh and tasty. 

The following day we took a long stroll south, mostly on boardwalks through the towns of Vila Cha, São Paio and Labruge. Vila Cha had a fisherman’s quarter and São Paio included the mostly undated but protected remains of circular stone houses which would have had thatched roofs. The wooden boardwalks protected endangered plover nesting territory. We stopped on our way back for a refreshing drink and just enjoyed the ocean views and sound of the wind and waves - very zen.

Fão

This town overdelivered on the wind - gusts were so strong we did little more than walking to the medieval cemetery and doing some grocery shopping. The campground wasn’t great so we moved on.

Viana do Castelo

Orbitur Viana do Castelo campground was more to our liking though we struggled to find a spot due to its popularity. The beach was filled with people taking full advantage of the water and wind including kitesurfing, wing-foiling, and twin-tipping (I had to look that up). Unfortunately we have no pictures of it all since we left our phones in the camper so we could enjoy the beach. Too bad the wind didn’t make it past the high dunes to cool the campsite - it was hot! We cooled off in the pool.

The following day we took an uber into Viana do Castelo to follow Lonely Planet’s “Viana Sampler” walking tour despite the heat. The Sé de Viana was built in the 15th century in Romanesque style. It was beautiful, as they usually are. The tomb with the raised sculpture which had its own window was the only one I’d ever seen like it. What a privileged place to spend eternity. 

We heard loud drumming and followed our ears to the Praça da República and witnessed some kind of celebration with an exciting musical routine with a bagpipe, accordion, many drums and people dressed in traditional clothing (photo above). The drummers pounded away enthusiastically drawing the crowd into their excitement. I added videos to the album. When the drumming finished, there was a procession which seemed quite tame in comparison. 

That left us to admire the square’s fountain, Antigos Paços do Concelho and the elaborate Igreja de Misericórdia. The Igreja is just beautiful with its blue and white tiles and altar.

 

We then checked out the free Casa dos Nichos - a 15th century house turned archeological museum. It was amazing to see the map detailing all the archeological sites ranging from Paleolithic to medieval in the area.

Model of fortified group of houses.

Praça da Liberdade is the huge square on the bank of the Rio Lima with a splash pad. It was fun watching adults trying to walk-race across to avoid being splashed by the unpredictable jets. 

Lunch at a recommended restaurant was a real deal with vegetable soup, puff pastry items filled with either chicken or seafood, sangria, bottled water and a regional dessert pastry I’ve forgotten the name of. It was filled with custard and had a light crunchy top with crushed almonds. These items were patiently explained to us by our kind server as we peered at the choices in the case. Total: 11€ and change. 

Gil Eannes, the hospital ship built here in 1955, spent over 20 years traveling the world often treating cod fishers around Iceland and Greenland. 

We then visited several churches on the way to Castelo de São Tiago da Barra. This fortress sits where the river meets the sea and was obviously built for defense. We enjoyed climbing the walls and checking out the views.

Next: Santiago de Compostela