North-West Spain: More than pilgrims.

Tower of Hercules

Santiago de Compostela 

I’ll admit, I didn’t expect much from Santiago de Compostela. It all starts with the story about how the apostle James’s remains were smuggled into Spain, hidden in a tomb, and then forgotten for nearly 800 years until a hermit found them right about the time when religious zeal was needed to defeat the Moors.  

Annunciation sculptures

Today, pilgrims come from all walks of life, each with their own reasons, but it was heartwarming to experience the applause and cheers as they entered the cathedral square. We could hear the festivities while exploring the cathedral museum—highly recommended, especially if you like a good historical mystery with a side of bagpipes.  The photo above features the angel telling Mary she is pregnant with the son of God. Is it just me or does the visibly pregnant Mary seem less than happy with the news and/or the timing of it? 

Our photos here (i for info)

Gaelic influence is strong. The main path to the cathedral leads through a tunnel that amplifies the sound of bagpipe buskers, making it feel like a mini-concert. Dermot even found an Irish connection: the Archbishop of Cashel Thomas Walsh is buried in the cathedral! 

The cathedral and its surroundings boast stunning stone facades that showcase various architectural styles, all harmoniously blended. We snapped some pics at the Cathedral Museum and visited the original 12th-century entrance, the “Portico of Glory,” which now resides inside to keep it safe from the elements. It’s a polychrome masterpiece that’s worth the timed entry ticket, even if you can’t take pictures.

Portico of Glory brochure photo

Overall, I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed being a tourist here, despite the crowds of tourists and pilgrims. It’s like a pilgrimage of its own just to navigate the sea of people!

A Coruña

We checked out the Tower of Hercules, a Roman lighthouse from 2 AD that’s still standing tall. Inside, there’s a fascinating room about its history and construction, and the climb to the top is worth it for the views. The surrounding park is a sculpture lover’s dream, with extensive walkways to explore.

Our wander through the old town was a treasure trove of interesting architecture. The modest narrow home pictured is one of the last of its kind, built for fishermen. Many houses have glassed-in balconies, and the waterfront buildings are elegant, though they overlook a port with a cruise ship that’s as charming as a traffic jam.

We ventured into the town center to see City Hall and Maria Pita Square. Finally a city with a female heroine as its symbol! Having worked at City Hall in Orlando, I’m always in awe of the beauty of European city halls and envy those who work there. Then I tell myself their plumbing probably doesn’t work. That’s how I’m using my psychology degree in retirement.

All in all, this is a vibrant city with great weather, plenty of public art, fountains, excellent public transportation, bike paths, and large pedestrian areas. It’s like a utopia for city dwellers, minus the plumbing issues.