Porto, Portugal

 

Sé do Porto Azulejos

We’d been to Porto in 2019 but we decided it was a good place to be while the inland temperatures were predicted to soar. Having changed campsites frequently for a stretch, we needed some downtime. South of Porto but just across the street from the beach, Orbitur Canidelo campground provided a relatively comfortable place to recover. The first day we walked to a beachfront restaurant for lunch, did some chores and walked to a restaurant for dinner.  

Our photos here

The following day I finished a post and we headed into Porto where we visited Sé do Porto - yes, another cathedral. This one is noted for its walls decorated with blue and white tiles (azulejos) depicting historical and biblical scenes. We climbed to the top of the bell tower for sweeping views of the city. That pillory right in front of the Sé was a stark warning. We’d also visited in 2019 but only realized it once there. 

Afterwards we headed for the historic Mercado do Bolhâo which has undergone renovations recently and has a basement floor that’s a typical market. We found the restaurants on the top floor had what we consider “tourist prices” so we headed for the recently added Time Out Market alongside the train station (also decorated extensively with azulejos). 

Train station panographic

The LP guidebook said The Time Out Market had been taken over by chefs. They were right: there were no traditional stalls of vegetables, meats and fish, just several mini-restaurants where you ordered your meal and were provided with a buzzer then seated yourself at long communal wooden tables. The many tempting choices at very reasonable prices made it hard to choose. We both enjoyed our meals and then sampled the offerings at the pastry shop.

We visited the National Museum Soares Dos Reis which had been a mansion that now housed art by Portuguese artists. There was a vast range of paintings, sculpture, ceramics, and items from church treasuries. I loved this painting of the boy showing the artist the portrait he’s done of him while getting his portrait painted.

There were also temporary photography exhibitions and a garden area that was hosting an event called “Other Tongues.” We were handed a “De-Othering Recital Audience Guide” which explained the event which emphasized participation and included artists from many different countries and disciplines (poetry, music and fabric art). I found it very moving and have included the English version of it at the end of this post. So often while traveling, I feel we are outside the culture looking in. I was asked to participate by reading the English translation of a beautiful poem by Si Tou Chi as she read in Cantonese. It felt good to be part of a moment of cross-cultural connection, however brief. 

We then roamed down to Ryan’s Irish Pub, then back to the Time Out Market for dinner. Dermot was tempted to get the dish described as “Bean Stew with Codfish Swimbladder” but went with the mussels instead. 

While strolling we noted many beautiful buildings but also many that were in ruins with nothing but facades supported so they don’t collapse. This one struck me as very sad as it was clearly a house of historical note and grandeur with its tiles explaining its significance.

We headed back to the riverfront and ran into a family that had camped next to us - what are the odds of running into the only people we know in Porto? We remember the waterfront as being very pretty and romantic at night when we last visited.

A spot with no vendors, just lots of tourists.

 It’s still very pretty but this time it was mobbed with vendors selling all kinds of trinkets and tourist services. We’re not sure if our memory is faulty or if it really is more touristy now. 

We got back to the campsite around 10:30 and shortly thereafter started hearing what we later found out were fireworks for yet another festival - this one not far from camp and in honor of St. Peter. 

From the “Other Tongues” event on June 28, 2025

bpM — De-Othering Recital Audience Guide

We miss the joy of reading together.

Those quiet afternoons, or early evenings, when everyone held a book,

and the only sound was the turning of pages.

No need to speak, but you knew everyone was there.

Tonight, we want to find that feeling again.

Bring your book

The one you wouldn't lend to anyone, or the one you picked up today.

Either works.

Find a place where your body can rest

Tonight, no one will tell you where to sit.

Maybe a cushion on the floor, maybe a chair in the corner, maybe beside a friend,

or somewhere quiet on your own.

Sound will begin like this

Someone will read a text, chosen for tonight's theme.

At the same time, an instrument will respond —

not background music, but conversation.

A dialogue between voices/sounds.

Then, the music will stay

It will move through the space, as natural as breathing.

You can open your book, close your eyes, or do nothing at all.

If you feel like reading aloud

The microphones are nearby, waiting for you,

Read anything — a line of poetry, a sentence, a page of prose.

Chinese, English, Portuguese, Patuá, or any language you want to speak.

The music will hear you, and respond.

This is not a performance

This is a night we create together.

No stage, no audience — just voices meeting in the room.

Be gentle

With yourself, with others' voices.

Languages we don't understand are beautiful too.

We're here, breathing together.

That's enough.