Lisboa Camping & Bungalows is that rare campground that’s close to the city but in a forest setting with a pool. The sanitaires are functional but need upkeep and better cleaning but we were comfortable enough to spend over a week here.
There’s tons to see and do in Lisbon so even with leaving many out, there’s over 100 photos in our album. Since Google photos tags where each is taken you can click “i.” I can’t even come close doing justice to the deep history here so I’m leaving it to you to delve deeper if you’re interested.
Belém
Our first major sight was the gorgeous Monastery of Jerónimos. It survived the 1755 earthquake preserving the beautiful Manueline architectural style. The entirety of the monastery and church are beautiful inside and out.
Strolling along the water we stopped at the Monument to the Discoveries and Belem Tower which was closed and undergoing renovation. Towards the end of our time in Lisbon we returned to this area to take in the Contemporary Art and Architecture Museum. We lucked into an exhibit focusing on women artists by Peggy Guggenheim.
Mouraria, Graça and the Alfama
After taking on the more refined area around Belem, on Saturday night we headed to the historic neighborhoods of Mouraria, Graça and the Alfama. We wanted to check out the party scene described in Lonely Planet as:
“Feast With Locals at Neighbourhood Arraiais: Join the santos populares fests. It’s without much doubt Lisbon’s most famed street celebration: santos populares. In honour of St. Antonio (and St Vincent), Lisbon’s historic neighbourhoods fill up with a beer-holding, sardine-eating crowd … usually dancing the night away to a particular Portuguese music genre known as música pimba (think flashy dancers, high-pitched singers and tunes that mix pop with a folksy beat). That’s the daily (or rather, nightly) top activity during June, peaking on the 12th, the eve of Lisbon’s holiday. The feast spreads across the city, but it’s stronger in Alfama, Graça and Mouraria – these neighbourhoods will be bursting at the seams.”
We followed the historic centre walking tour starting in Mouraria which was established as a ghetto in 1147 for the Moors and is still a less expensive part of town. It is considered the birthplace of fado.
Its narrow streets and alleys weren’t rebuilt on the grid plan after the 1755 earthquake and they twist and turn and occasionally widen into small “squares” but seem to be any shape except square. As we followed the directions in the late afternoon, we moved to the recorded music and saw the decorations, tables, chairs and stalls selling food and drinks. We walked up, up, up the stairs enjoying the murals those who take the funicular miss. Arriving at the festive music and party atmosphere of the Graça miradour (viewpoint) we enjoyed the sweeping city views. We decided to take a table in the section for raising funds for scouts. The food and drink choices were few, simple and cheap.
Many people sported one of three kinds of head gear: Super Bock beer hats with pop-up ears; sardines that appeared to be engulfing the wearer’s head; or headbands with bridal veils attached. We later learned the bridal veil is because São Antonio is the patron saint of weddings.
After soaking up the atmosphere we decided to continue on our walk into Alfama and see what the festivities were like there. Some streets were deserted but the later it got the more people joined the festivities in the decorated squares. Everyone seemed to be having a great time meeting friends and family. It was one of those times you can sense what it would be like to be a local but it also felt a bit isolating since we’re outsiders looking in. When we’d had enough we tried to make our way out of the packed areas to get an Uber. We had to literally squeeze through the crowds sometimes being sprayed with sparks from the grills as we passed - exciting and smoky!
When we finally connected with our Uber driver, he told us it would be very busy for him later when other party goers were ready to leave. He was from India and we had a great conversation, so much so he actually invited us to his brother’s wedding in India and even gave us his personal telephone number. 🤣🤣🤣
Chiado
We had a great multicultural night out on Sunday hitting both The Corner Irish Pub then a night of traditional fado. We didn’t understand the Portuguese but the singers were so expressive the performance was moving none-the-less.
A Market, Pink Street plus, plus, plus
At the Time Out Market, lunch included vegan options for which I was very grateful. We got an English tour through the Núcleo Arqueológico da Rua dos Correeiros which was a very interesting look at what was found when the bank decided to create an underground parking lot. Surprise! Layers and layers of the past which have now been excavated and presented beautifully with technology to aid understanding of the findings. Break time included pastel de nata (famous custard tart Dermot craves) fresh from the oven. So good!! We enjoyed following the RS walk. For dinner we ended up at Duque (steps from the place we’d gone to fado) and had excellent meals of Sea Rice and Bacalhua à Duque at Duque.
Parque das Nações
This area was the site of Expo ‘98 and turned what was once an industrial wasteland into a neighborhood with hotels, event spaces and an aquarium. It’s now faded but still includes interesting architecture, urban art and many businesses. Of course we had to fit in another Irish Pub. We headed back into the heart of the city and wandered the botanical park but it was a bit disappointing.
Sintra
Though there are several outstanding sites in Sintra we choose Quinta da Regaleira. The Manueline style “palace” was never home to royalty and was built in the 20th century.
Okay, so not the most historically relevant place but the extensive grounds were designed for those who want to roam through the forest “discovering” underground passages, wells, grottos, and catching glimpses of magnificent romantic structures in the distance. Great for photos and we took many.
Next: Péniche.
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