Aljezur to Santiago do Cacém

 

At Ribat da Arrifana

Aljezur

Camping Serrao sounded nice in the online reviews but the lack of campsite boundaries set Dermot’s teeth on edge. The eucalyptus trees provided a nice scent though. Unique offering from a campground prize goes to: burro ride/ceramics class combo.

This region is known for its natural areas crisscrossed with hiking trails, dramatic coastlines and many beaches. Historically, it has been inhabited since 7,000 B.C. And though there are artifacts from prehistoric times, it’s especially known for ruins dating back to the Islamic period (10th - 13th century). 

Our photos here

Our first outing was to Ribat da Arrifana which was a monastery-fortress set on top of a cliff overlooking a beach and natural harbor. Three walls of one building remain as well as numerous other foundations. These scant remains are what is left of one of the biggest ribats ever found on the Iberian Peninsula. The ruins were surrounded by a variety of tough, low-growing native plants. The views of the cliffs, beaches below and peaceful surroundings invited us to linger and wander the trails.

The following day we set out for Aljezur’s old town which spreads out below the castle along steep single lane roads in moorish style. It, like all other towns from Morocco to Lisbon, was devastated in the 1755 earthquake and resulting fires and tsunami. Signs informed us that the town had been rebuilt but the original street layout was followed.

The Aljezur castle was built in the 10th century, during the Muslim occupation of the Gharb al-Andalus. However, archaeological findings certify that this place has been occupied since the Iron Age. It was the last castle in the Algarve to be conquered by the Christians in 1249. 

I love coming across places that blend the very old with the very new. This picture of a very old building that’s been sideswiped many times sports a tile that includes an instagram address. Apologies for being too lazy to get a good picture of the whole town with the castle overhead.

Monte Clérigo

We arrived on a chilly, windy day, but this little beach village was charming. Surfing is popular and we saw many hikers.

Vila Nova de Milfontes

Sitava Milfontes campground wasn’t good: uneven pitches; too many pine trees; too few electrical boxes and creepy sanitary buildings. Water from the sinks emptied right below our feet into a cement channel covered with a metal grate that ran along the sink line. We stayed for two days and nobody removed the dead bird in the sanitary. This is a reality check for any of you that think we’re “living the dream.” 

Though the beach was pretty and boardwalks nice, it was too cold and windy to enjoy much time there. Our original plan for this area had been kayaking the river but high winds nixed that. 

We roamed the town on our last night, found it more for beach-oriented tourists, and had a somewhat disappointing dinner. 

Santiago do Cacém

This city captured our imaginations. Finding no parking near the TI, we wound up on a hair-raising jaunt through single lane two-way streets of the old town. Then we lucked into a dirt lot, and walked up to the castle reading the signs in multiple languages at various points of interest. We’ve never seen the ruins of a castle turned into the town cemetery before. 

There was everything from old mausoleums and columbariums to whole areas of mounded bare earth with headstones and even plots still available for sale topped with smooth bare stone slabs. It filled the space within the crenelated castle walls. I imagine it would be an enviable final resting place. 

The adjacent garden within the outer castle walls must have been wonderful at one time but were now underwhelming. 

We took an alternate route back and were saddened by the many buildings with architectural interest that were neglected or falling into ruin.

Next stop: Lisbon