From Costa Cálida to Costa del Sol

 

Frigiliana

Cartagena

The drive along the coastal regions was scenic in many areas but the last stretch was through a mountainous area where we found our chosen campsite to be too secluded from grocery stores and too difficult to reach the city. So we headed right back through the mountains to Area Autocaravanas Cartagena. 

Our photos here

We were happy with our choice which put us in a suburb with stores, restaurants and public transportation in easy walking distance and only cost €15 per night. Cartagena is jam-packed with historical sites. We visited the museum preserving the defensive walls built by the Cartheginians, the impressive Roman theater, and the port as well as several ruins we just happened on.

 Cartegena is known for having graceful architecture in the Modernista style - heavily influenced by Gaudi. The façades of these lovely buildings have graceful balconies and are nearly dripping with twining plant and flower motifs as well as colorful ceramics. 

The Roman Forum far exceeded our expectations both in the size and quality of the conservation as well as the explanations in English. Their baths were incredible - they featured every temperature from a cold plunge pool to a sauna and spaces to socialize. We remarked it would have been far better than the gym we pay for monthly and they were free to the public.

Many times we noted the apartments that overlooked these incredible sites. Can you imagine having a Roman theater or forum as your everyday view?!

We capped the day off by heading to a tapas bar set in an entire block of restaurants flanked by a plaza which included a playground where children played while their parents relaxed at tables.  Our camp host had explained that this area was dominated by and made for locals so the prices were typical (not tourist prices). Dermot chose a dish that translated to breaded chicken burger with fries and was disappointed by the pink color and decided lack of chicken taste. I chose the house’s signature salad partially because it included “bocas de mar” which translates to “mouths of the sea” and curiosity got the better of me. It was fairly tasty but nearly drowned in Russian dressing. By process elimination, I determined that bocas de mar was surimi. Their version is made of a very thin layer of a white substance that’s pink on one side. It’s rolled and sliced into logs and tasted slightly of crab, or so I imagined. Your guess is as good as mine as to what inspired the name. When the check came, the server put down a plate which held two shots of Irish Cream and said “for you” with a big smile. We were blown away by this thoughtful gesture. For context, the bill for a bottle of beer and one of cider plus two meals was only €18.80. They knew we were tourists and unlikely to come again and there had been no mention of Irish background. Tourists are not always welcome visitors but we felt welcome here. Not a squirt gun in sight.

Nerja and Frigiliana

The drive to Nerja included some pretty seaside cities but then changed to literally miles and miles of greenhouses covered with white plastic. They must grow an immense amount of produce there!

We returned to Camping Cortijo San Miguel (where we stayed in 2019) and enjoyed its beautiful landscaping but not the fluctuating shower temperature. 

Though there was a sand beach in walking distance we biked into town for dinner. Actually, we biked only until hitting the town where we chose walking with bikes along crowded sidewalks over biking on the roads for the most part because I didn’t trust my biking skills and prefer to live. 

We ate at a Cuban restaurant where Dermot got Ropa Vieja which was made with beef, included crispy cassava, some salad and was very tasty. 

We were surprised it was made with beef rather than pork but learned the dish originated in Spain and the meat used varies regionally. I got a salmon, tomato and avocado salad which was good but also surprised me by the lack of other salad-type ingredients. The owner had a big smile for all his customers and sang Cuban songs as he whizzed through the dining room. On our way home we stopped to soak in the ocean views and the ethereal way the sea and sky melded into each other.

Excited to enjoy another Rick Steves guided walk, we biked into town and boarded the packed bus to the hill town of Frigiliana he described as:

“The picturesque whitewashed village of Frigiliana (free-hee-lee-AH-nah), only four miles inland from Nerja, makes for a wonderful side trip. A thousand feet above sea level, full of history, and feeling like it dropped in from the mountains of Morocco, it’s a striking contrast to its beach resort sister.”

— Rick Steves Spain by Rick Steves

https://a.co/7oyndya

We got a map and bus timetable from the TI but were disappointed the museum was closed and we couldn’t get the handout that described the history explained on the tiles inset on buildings around the town. Despite this and google maps we spent a surprising amount of time lost here. 

“The street plan dates to medieval times, when the Moors tucked their village here, high in the hills away from coastal raiders. The whitewash dates to the 18th century, when a plague killed 40 percent of the population. To sterilize the town, everything was burned or slathered in lime to kill the germs. It turned out that the whitewash reflected the sun, keeping things cool. People liked it, and it remains to this day. While houses must be white, the trim is your choice. Enjoy the traffic-free tranquility, small restaurants, big views, and flowers.”

— Rick Steves Spain by Rick Steves

https://a.co/c198LKi

We enjoyed climbing up and through the various levels that seemed to have grown organically rather than being engineered.  There were impressive views at every turn and the moorish influences are still visible in “hand of Fatima” door knockers and the architecture of arches and door shapes. One street used to be the market street “little souk” and was now lined with pots filled with succulents and flowers. Both our lunch and break spots provided beautiful views and shade which was very much appreciated on this hot day. Dermot noticed the tourists here were mostly British and Irish.

Next stop: Andalusian Hill towns