Andalusian Hill Towns

 

Zahara

Dermot and I both drive the campervan. I try to drive when we’ll need navigation research enroute because he gets carsick trying to read a screen in a moving vehicle but we trade off. On the way to our chosen home base in the region, I was driving and we started seeing gorgeous hilltop towns. I asked Dermot to see if one of the Rick Steves (RS) recommended towns was not too far off our route to make a detour to see it. Since we’d discussed the choices in the RS book earlier, I thought this would be as simple for him as it would be for me. Nope, seems he’d left the research to me. This set off a round of questions I couldn’t answer as I had to keep my eyes glued to the twisting road with no exits and allot of gnashing of teeth and cursing. We got to Zahara in one piece but not without leaving us both a bit queasy.

Our photos here

Zahara

This small town is perched on a hill under a moorish castle and overlooks a large reservoir. The reservoir was peaceful and full of life but is man-made - it was once just a stream. Dark storm clouds threatened rain so we outfitted ourselves for a drenching but only experienced a brief shower as we climbed up the twisting, narrow streets through the town. Seen from afar, the castle looms far above the white-washed town. Just how cool would it be to look up to a moorish castle from your home everyday? We decided against paying the entrance fee for the town and castle due to time constraints but really enjoyed the views. If you look closely, you can spot our camper between the buildings far below in one shot. 

Arcos de la Frontera

Our campground, Lago de Arcos, was about an hour walking distance outside the town but still not within the public transportation system. Luckily, the camp had a restaurant where we made reservations for the earliest available time: 8:00 pm. We hung out at the bar for the free WiFi and posted a blog while we waited. We seated ourselves at the table with our name on it a bit after the reserved time and were ignored for a good 20 minutes while we watched employees enjoying wine and beer and joking with each other. The table next to us was reserved for 9:30 - we silly Americans still hadn’t adjusted to eating on Spanish time. 

The RS guide warned us not to start the Arcos de la Frontera walk during the midday siesta. So we spent it doing chores, resting and researching where to park outside of the old town with its too narrow streets. It was 7 by the time we made it into town and the churches and many spots on the walk were closed. We got drinks at a hotel with terrace just to take in the view. 

There are Roman columns at the corners of many buildings, moved long ago from their origins to save the corners from being damaged by donkey carts. We continued the walk but stopped for delicious tapas in a small square outside a convent. The shrimp wrapped in crispy potato and the fried seafood plate were delicious. 

Our campground gates close at 10 so we had to cut our visit short. It was a good thing Dermot insisted on leaving a margin of error because we were bedeviled by a big celebration and many roads were closed for the occasion. Reaching one road closure sign and barricade. Dermot had two police on motorcycles behind him. He felt pressured to get out of their way so rather than trying to turn around, he passed the stopped car in front of him and went around the barricade. His logic escaped me; we escaped getting a ticket but it took us a very long time to escape the town after that.

The pictures at the end of the album were taken as we drove out of the area but if you look up the town I’m sure you’ll find better ones online.

Next stop: Portugal