Faro, Portugal

 

View from the Bell Tower

At the end of our last post I described Dermot’s open defiance of the clearly marked barricade right in front of two police officers. Having gotten away with that, we then committed two more acts of lawlessness - one on each side of the border. We left without paying for our campsite then drove on toll roads without a transponder in Portugal. Upon reflection, we decided we didn’t want to be internationally wanted criminals because a campervan isn’t an ideal get-away car. So we did what we could to make amends but there’s no telling what’s going to happen next. 

Our photos here

Faro Campervan Park, in a suburb called Montenegro, gave us the typical mix of good access and poor facilities. The gravel lot was light on shade and had coin-operated showers and toilets (yes, $ .50 every time). We broke out our bikes and followed the provided map into Parque Natural de Ria Formosa to the place we were most likely to see flamingos. No flamingos, but there were lots of stork nests and salt flats. There weren’t many other birds and our trip was cut short by a fence that wasn’t on the map. 

The following day we headed to the historical center of Faro which is encircled by 8th century Moorish walls and we entered by way of the 11th century “Arabic Door.”  

Faro’s cathedral is in the heart of the old town square lined with citrus trees. 

Once a Roman temple, then a mosque stood here. There are gothic, renaissance and baroque sections, many featuring the lovely tile Portugal is known for. We climbed the bell tower to take in the sweeping views then checked out the peaceful cloister and bone chapel which was poignant. 

There’re many boat tours available but the types of wildlife we were likely to see were the same we’d see in abundance at home so we skipped them. 

The restaurant we chose this night was filled with locals whose amiable banter left us feeling we were enjoying a true neighborhood restaurant experience. It didn’t matter that we weren’t local, they treated us as if we could be. Dermot’s plate of ribs and mine of cod fritters were satisfying and homey.

Next stop: Lagos

Andalusian Hill Towns

 

Zahara

Dermot and I both drive the campervan. I try to drive when we’ll need navigation research enroute because he gets carsick trying to read a screen in a moving vehicle but we trade off. On the way to our chosen home base in the region, I was driving and we started seeing gorgeous hilltop towns. I asked Dermot to see if one of the Rick Steves (RS) recommended towns was not too far off our route to make a detour to see it. Since we’d discussed the choices in the RS book earlier, I thought this would be as simple for him as it would be for me. Nope, seems he’d left the research to me. This set off a round of questions I couldn’t answer as I had to keep my eyes glued to the twisting road with no exits and allot of gnashing of teeth and cursing. We got to Zahara in one piece but not without leaving us both a bit queasy.

Our photos here

Zahara

This small town is perched on a hill under a moorish castle and overlooks a large reservoir. The reservoir was peaceful and full of life but is man-made - it was once just a stream. Dark storm clouds threatened rain so we outfitted ourselves for a drenching but only experienced a brief shower as we climbed up the twisting, narrow streets through the town. Seen from afar, the castle looms far above the white-washed town. Just how cool would it be to look up to a moorish castle from your home everyday? We decided against paying the entrance fee for the town and castle due to time constraints but really enjoyed the views. If you look closely, you can spot our camper between the buildings far below in one shot. 

Arcos de la Frontera

Our campground, Lago de Arcos, was about an hour walking distance outside the town but still not within the public transportation system. Luckily, the camp had a restaurant where we made reservations for the earliest available time: 8:00 pm. We hung out at the bar for the free WiFi and posted a blog while we waited. We seated ourselves at the table with our name on it a bit after the reserved time and were ignored for a good 20 minutes while we watched employees enjoying wine and beer and joking with each other. The table next to us was reserved for 9:30 - we silly Americans still hadn’t adjusted to eating on Spanish time. 

The RS guide warned us not to start the Arcos de la Frontera walk during the midday siesta. So we spent it doing chores, resting and researching where to park outside of the old town with its too narrow streets. It was 7 by the time we made it into town and the churches and many spots on the walk were closed. We got drinks at a hotel with terrace just to take in the view. 

There are Roman columns at the corners of many buildings, moved long ago from their origins to save the corners from being damaged by donkey carts. We continued the walk but stopped for delicious tapas in a small square outside a convent. The shrimp wrapped in crispy potato and the fried seafood plate were delicious. 

Our campground gates close at 10 so we had to cut our visit short. It was a good thing Dermot insisted on leaving a margin of error because we were bedeviled by a big celebration and many roads were closed for the occasion. Reaching one road closure sign and barricade. Dermot had two police on motorcycles behind him. He felt pressured to get out of their way so rather than trying to turn around, he passed the stopped car in front of him and went around the barricade. His logic escaped me; we escaped getting a ticket but it took us a very long time to escape the town after that.

The pictures at the end of the album were taken as we drove out of the area but if you look up the town I’m sure you’ll find better ones online.

Next stop: Portugal

From Costa Cálida to Costa del Sol

 

Frigiliana

Cartagena

The drive along the coastal regions was scenic in many areas but the last stretch was through a mountainous area where we found our chosen campsite to be too secluded from grocery stores and too difficult to reach the city. So we headed right back through the mountains to Area Autocaravanas Cartagena. 

Our photos here

We were happy with our choice which put us in a suburb with stores, restaurants and public transportation in easy walking distance and only cost €15 per night. Cartagena is jam-packed with historical sites. We visited the museum preserving the defensive walls built by the Cartheginians, the impressive Roman theater, and the port as well as several ruins we just happened on.

 Cartegena is known for having graceful architecture in the Modernista style - heavily influenced by Gaudi. The façades of these lovely buildings have graceful balconies and are nearly dripping with twining plant and flower motifs as well as colorful ceramics. 

The Roman Forum far exceeded our expectations both in the size and quality of the conservation as well as the explanations in English. Their baths were incredible - they featured every temperature from a cold plunge pool to a sauna and spaces to socialize. We remarked it would have been far better than the gym we pay for monthly and they were free to the public.

Many times we noted the apartments that overlooked these incredible sites. Can you imagine having a Roman theater or forum as your everyday view?!

We capped the day off by heading to a tapas bar set in an entire block of restaurants flanked by a plaza which included a playground where children played while their parents relaxed at tables.  Our camp host had explained that this area was dominated by and made for locals so the prices were typical (not tourist prices). Dermot chose a dish that translated to breaded chicken burger with fries and was disappointed by the pink color and decided lack of chicken taste. I chose the house’s signature salad partially because it included “bocas de mar” which translates to “mouths of the sea” and curiosity got the better of me. It was fairly tasty but nearly drowned in Russian dressing. By process elimination, I determined that bocas de mar was surimi. Their version is made of a very thin layer of a white substance that’s pink on one side. It’s rolled and sliced into logs and tasted slightly of crab, or so I imagined. Your guess is as good as mine as to what inspired the name. When the check came, the server put down a plate which held two shots of Irish Cream and said “for you” with a big smile. We were blown away by this thoughtful gesture. For context, the bill for a bottle of beer and one of cider plus two meals was only €18.80. They knew we were tourists and unlikely to come again and there had been no mention of Irish background. Tourists are not always welcome visitors but we felt welcome here. Not a squirt gun in sight.

Nerja and Frigiliana

The drive to Nerja included some pretty seaside cities but then changed to literally miles and miles of greenhouses covered with white plastic. They must grow an immense amount of produce there!

We returned to Camping Cortijo San Miguel (where we stayed in 2019) and enjoyed its beautiful landscaping but not the fluctuating shower temperature. 

Though there was a sand beach in walking distance we biked into town for dinner. Actually, we biked only until hitting the town where we chose walking with bikes along crowded sidewalks over biking on the roads for the most part because I didn’t trust my biking skills and prefer to live. 

We ate at a Cuban restaurant where Dermot got Ropa Vieja which was made with beef, included crispy cassava, some salad and was very tasty. 

We were surprised it was made with beef rather than pork but learned the dish originated in Spain and the meat used varies regionally. I got a salmon, tomato and avocado salad which was good but also surprised me by the lack of other salad-type ingredients. The owner had a big smile for all his customers and sang Cuban songs as he whizzed through the dining room. On our way home we stopped to soak in the ocean views and the ethereal way the sea and sky melded into each other.

Excited to enjoy another Rick Steves guided walk, we biked into town and boarded the packed bus to the hill town of Frigiliana he described as:

“The picturesque whitewashed village of Frigiliana (free-hee-lee-AH-nah), only four miles inland from Nerja, makes for a wonderful side trip. A thousand feet above sea level, full of history, and feeling like it dropped in from the mountains of Morocco, it’s a striking contrast to its beach resort sister.”

— Rick Steves Spain by Rick Steves

https://a.co/7oyndya

We got a map and bus timetable from the TI but were disappointed the museum was closed and we couldn’t get the handout that described the history explained on the tiles inset on buildings around the town. Despite this and google maps we spent a surprising amount of time lost here. 

“The street plan dates to medieval times, when the Moors tucked their village here, high in the hills away from coastal raiders. The whitewash dates to the 18th century, when a plague killed 40 percent of the population. To sterilize the town, everything was burned or slathered in lime to kill the germs. It turned out that the whitewash reflected the sun, keeping things cool. People liked it, and it remains to this day. While houses must be white, the trim is your choice. Enjoy the traffic-free tranquility, small restaurants, big views, and flowers.”

— Rick Steves Spain by Rick Steves

https://a.co/c198LKi

We enjoyed climbing up and through the various levels that seemed to have grown organically rather than being engineered.  There were impressive views at every turn and the moorish influences are still visible in “hand of Fatima” door knockers and the architecture of arches and door shapes. One street used to be the market street “little souk” and was now lined with pots filled with succulents and flowers. Both our lunch and break spots provided beautiful views and shade which was very much appreciated on this hot day. Dermot noticed the tourists here were mostly British and Irish.

Next stop: Andalusian Hill towns

From Costa Daurada to Costa Blanca

Valencia Amphitheater

Tarragona

Driving from Girona to Tarragona signs on the highway tell us in  English "Flat tire? Don't trust strangers." Another warned us to beware of fake accidents. We consider ourselves forewarned. 

Our photos here

Arrival at Camping Las Palmas in Tarragona is a pleasant surprise - sunny, warm weather; two restaurants and huge. We get a spot with  an ocean view, just one space away from the beach for just over $25 per night. Dermot enjoyed watching the El Classico, Barcelona vs Reál Madrid game, which was being aired on a big screen in a courtyard with plenty of space for the many enthusiastic Barcelona fans. Meanwhile, I spend over an hour on a Whatsapp Mother's day call with my "kids." The camp’s restaurant caps the day off perfectly with a bass dinner for two as we gaze at the waves.

All the museum and archeological sites are closed on Monday so we planned to just visit the Cathedral Tarragona and roam around a bit. The Cathedral was so much better than expected since it also contained an art museum and an excellent series of excavated glimpses into the deep past including ancient Roman foundations, walls and a well; medieval additions and a pretty cloister.  This was a real standout cathedral! The art was very enjoyable as there were many exceptional pieces. I got a kick out of a depiction of baby Jesus being a handful and clearly annoying Mary. Another baby Jesus had blond hair, a homely face but an inexplicably jacked physique.

Our choice of Mom and Pop place for lunch reminded us never to go where prices aren’t posted since “tourist rates” will be applied. We strolled the old town including the Jewish quarter then headed for a glimpse of the Roman sites. Turns out, this city has often preserved sections of its ancient Roman past and sometimes built on top of it through Visigoth and Medieval times. We got great views from the outside of many historical sites then made the mistake of taking a tourist train which drove us all over but provided no commentary. 

The following day we visited the Amphitheatre, Roman Circus, Provincial Forum Praetorium, and the walls. For anyone who enjoys history, there’s nothing like being surrounded by it in a place like this with so many layers and interesting elements. Multiple audiovisual presentations attempted to give you the perspective of just how big and grand the Roman city of Tarraco was by showing overlays with present landscapes. We were really impressed.

We ate a delicious lunch at an Indian restaurant. Touristing is thirsty work so in the late afternoon we found a tiny cafe nearly bursting with locals and enjoyed their special of two drinks and tapas for 11 euros. It’s often hard to find parking for our campervan but here we got safe parking in a lot just outside the city walls for only €1 for the whole day. Shocking!

Valencia

Valencia Camper Park is conveniently located five minutes walks from the metro but lacks charm - it’s just gravel with bushes and small trees that dropped some fruits that were crushed into the gravel. We couldn’t avoid tracking this sticky mess into the van. The normal men’s restrooms were under construction so Dermot suffered through some cold showers and times the waiting line was too long.

We spent the first night here researching the public transportation system, what we really wanted to see and how to see it. Once again we wished Rick Steves covered this area. We concentrated on the old town the first day. The trip via metro is a straight shot in but took nearly an hour. 

We first hit the massive Mercado which hosts many vendors in an art deco style building. It’s always fun to visit these busy markets bursting with all manner of fresh produce, meats, and seafood. We choose our lunch from among the prepared salads - mine was a potato, seafood, olive and veggie with a pesto dressing, Dermot’s was tuna, beans, purple onions and veggies with olive oil - both were tasty. Our guide book recommended trying horchata which is a traditional drink in Valencia, made with “tiger nuts.” My own research found these aren’t actually nuts but the edible tubers of a locally grown sedge. There are ground and mixed with water, sugar, and cinnamon. Our guide book told us the best place to get it and a fartón (which is an iced donut in a baton shape) for dunking in the horchata.  We found a bench seat in the market square to enjoy our picnic. The horchata was rich and creamy but too sweet which explained why they also offered one without sugar.

The Set Espai d’Art in the plaza adjoining the Cathedral is the place to get handmade art as well as souvenirs.

The Cathedral’s audio guide was very well done and explained the vast history, archeological findings below ground level, reliquaries, treasure and the art. One of Goya’s paintings is here - complete with demons and blood spraying from a cross. It also boasts the true holy grail - according to their research.

Finnegan’s Irish pub gave us just the rest we needed. We wandered across the Puente de la Trinidad and took in the view of the Jardin del Turia.  We only later learned there’s a whole archeological site below that we missed. The nearby Torres de Serranos was an impressive sight to behold. As we approached our chosen dinner spot, we were both intimidated by how upscale it looked. We’d arrived much earlier than Spaniards like to eat so we were given a table without having made a reservation. We both relished our meals of fish and veggies.

The following day we headed for the extensive modern architecture of the arts and sciences center. We took a tour of the 15 story Les Arts building which was built to resemble a Spartan helmet and clad in a mosaic of ceramic tiles in white and blue. I lost count of the performance spaces housed within it - each with acoustics designed to fit the type of performance - from opera, concerts, plays, and student productions. The seats were designed to ensure the acoustics would be the same no matter how many people attended. Each seat back in the largest space (primarily for opera) included a small screen on which a person could select to view subtitles in their preferred language. Genius!

There are multiple other impressive modern buildings nearby including a science center, IMAX cinema, aquarium, exhibition space, and the most lovely parking garage all flanked by a park. 

Dénia

Feeling the need for a bit of relaxation, we picked Camping Los Pinos, Las Rotes with its location close to the sea but outside of the city and much more comfortable facilities. This city is on the Costa Blanca - known for its fantastic year round weather and beaches. Dermot read that about half the population is from France, Italy, Britain. 

The paved board walk along the rocky beach made for nice walks with beautiful scenery but we never even made it in to see the castle in the heart of the city. Instead we did laundry and yoga at our campsite; ate meals from our tiny fridge and planned our next stop.