Norway's Natural Beauty

 

Nigard Glacier

Lom

We drove from Oslo past Lillehammer (site of the 1994 winter Olympics and famous knee-capping incident) and on to Lom enjoying the shift from city to small towns, then to a mix of modern and log houses with sod roofs that looked like they were built long ago. Our Lom camping was next to rushing Bøvra river so our view and soundscape couldn't be beat. While there, we visited Lom's impressive stave church built in the 1150's. Little remains of the early interior as its been expanded and even converted from Catholic to Lutheran in 1608, but it is still in use today. The process for preparing the trees prior to felling them and for building these churches is unique so google it if interested. The exterior is still painted with tar periodically to preserve the wood so there are many warnings not to light matches or smoke nearby!

Click here for our photos, "i" for information.

We got advice from the TI on roads conditions and a recommended unmarked trail along 55 for a hike with great views of three mountain lakes. This area is beautiful! We enjoyed comfortable temperatures as we hiked through mud, over rocks and even snow. Dermot climbed far higher than I did. I was happy to take panorama shots as I slowly followed, vowing silently to hit the stairmaster before our next trip. I say this every year but it could still happen!

Gjerde

The following day we set out for Gjerde along the Sognefjell over the ridge of the mountains on 55 to the Lustrafjord. We started along the churning powder blue river then climbed into the snowy mountain peaks. Dermot described the route saying "around every corner is another Kodak moment." At one pull out we learned that at one time "it was unsafe to journey across the Sognefjell. You were liable to be set upon by the vagrants who lived beyond the reach of the law. The stone [in the panorama shot to the right of Dermot] is supposed to have been much used by the vagrants as a hiding place." 

Another had stone markers for a group of men who were searching for grain and all froze to death.  This drive runs thru valleys and over peaks and has many fantastic waterfalls. It's usually closed mid-October to May and it was clear from the spots that still had deep snow on both sides of the road it was quite a job to clear it. Descending out of the mountain terrain we got our first glimpse of the Lustrafjord which looked like every picture postcard of a Norwegian Fjord. 

We had decided to take a trip to the most accessible branch of the largest glacier in Norway, though it is remote by our standards. We arrived at Jostedal Camping too wrecked from driving on the very narrow roads to attempt the hike that day so we settled in the campground to relax.

 The Nigard (translates to ninth farm) glacier is named so because, in the days it was advancing, it had crushed eight farms higher up the valley and stopped at the ninth.  Over 75 years ago the glacier reached all the way to the parking lot of the Breheimsenteret Glacier Information Center. Unfortunately, it's been shrinking for many years now so getting close enough to see it involved driving down a toll road, taking a boat and hiking over rocks of every size including huge ones polished smooth by the glacier. Dermot picked his way relatively easily while I lagged behind. 

Its hard to find the words for experiencing the glacier because the physical beauty can be somewhat captured in our photos, but the emotions standing before it are varied and conflicting. Imagining it's mass and power to carve out mountains inspires awe but knowing how climate change is causing glaciers to shrink all over the world gave me such a heavy heart. Dermot ventured past the chain posting warnings knowing that the melting waters create voids that could collapse at any time and said that it felt like an immense monster's mouth ready to devour you.

Safe back at our campsite, we enjoyed dinner watching birds catch insects for  their young beside the rushing river of melt water, the colors and sounds of which we never tired.

Flåm

Besides the beautiful scenery, the drive to Flåm had a few very special features. The first was that the road abruptly came to an end at a ferry crossing - our first fjord cruise! Not long after that, we were surprised by the many long tunnels we drove through. At 24.5 kilometers, the Lærdal tunnel is the longest road tunnel in Europe. It's good neither of us are claustrophobic! I was getting a bit hypnotized by the end of it.

Flåm is not a picturesque Norwegian village, but it gave us easy access to the two best sightseeing opportunities of the area. We took the fjord cruise from Flåm to Gudvangen and it was incredibly beautiful. 

The landscape is awe-inspiring and I felt very small compared to the heights of the mountains and depths of the fjord. If waterfalls give you chills, there are hundreds here. That some people managed to live in such inaccessible areas is a wonder.

The Flamsbana Train trip from Flåm to Myrdal climbs 2838 feet in 12 miles and passes by mighty waterfalls and scenic mountain landscapes reaching a crescendo of thundering water - Kjosfossen Falls. 

If the sight didn’t give you chills, the combination of the meltwater spray and haunting singing by a woman in a bright red dress definitely would. 

We also passed by villages and farms. Pictured here, if you zoom in, are horned goats whose milk is used to make brown cheese which is slightly sweet because the milk and whey are cooked which carmelizes the sugars. Marion had invited us to try it and I'm so glad she did because I never would have bought it but it's delicious!

Next stop: Norway's West Coast