2024 Trip Through France - Part 1

Dermot in Lille

London, Bristol, Cheddar, Folkestone, U.K.

I’m excited to be sharing this trip with the people who’ve said they enjoy reading the blog. There are about six of you. Since we were going to be visiting towns and cities that don’t appear in Rick Steve’s guide books, we added two ebooks as references:  Fodor’s France and Taking the Slow Road: France. The later is written by a man who tours in a campervan and includes campground recommendations - though usually of Aires which we’ve never braved so far.   This trip started like the others - realizing what we forgot to do or pack and vanlife maintenance. We spent a night in Bristol then a few days in Cheddar washing bedding, shopping for supplies, unpacking and even taking our folding bikes in for maintenance. Flying down a steep hill is a terrifying time to wonder if your brakes need replacing. We booked passage from Dover to Calais on a ferry before leaving Cheddar, which is an act of faith considering how many times an engine light’s appearance has altered our plans. Satisfied with our preparations, we headed for Folkestone.

Photo Album Here

Not a fan.

I anticipated challenges adhering to a vegan diet but one vegan meal called “Five Bean Chili” may have single-handedly undone me. Yes, it looks like a burger on a bun. But the waiter in the English pub assured me it was chili, breaded and fried and put on a bun. I thought he was joking. Inside was a mush nobody would mistake for chili.

Lille

The ferry trip was smooth and we drove straight towards Camping du Grand Sart. It’s 15 kilometers from Lille so the journey into the city is considerable. Camping here requires you to remember to bring your own toilet paper and the facilities aren’t great. On the other hand, the place is lovingly tended by a talented gardener so the sights and aromas of blooming shrubs and flowers is memorable. They also have chickens and two goats who spend their days head butting each other from the top of their very own castle. 

Their neighbors have a landscaping business which, I suppose, explains the Hobbit House.

We got a taste of the famously changeable weather of northern France on Monday. The forecast was threatening strong winds and rain so we looked for a way into town that avoided biking and excessive walking. After a few false starts we parked at the Fretin train station and arrived in Lille just in time to watch the driving rain drench pedestrians despite their raincoats and wreck their umbrellas even as they used them as shields. We chose to get a cappuccino to wait out the worst of it. 

Afterwards, we stopped at the TI and walked the tourist route in the old part of Lille seeing the outside of the Opera de Lille (they don’t give tours of the inside), La Vieille Bourse, Chambre of Commerce. For much of this time the sun was shining and the strong winds had chased the clouds away leaving only wispy traces behind. Dermot and I both love the old parts of towns and cities - the oddly shaped houses; the wood beams that aren’t true or level; they just add to the charm. We often wonder at some architectural choice that was made through the centuries to add a strange appendage or enclose what we think would have been a beautiful window or entryway. Of course, we don’t have to live there. I’m fascinated by the old fittings, hinges, latches and locks on doors and windows and how odd bits were put to use in surprising ways. 

Tiny “wicket” door in a door.

These revelations keep us coming back to Europe year after year. We always say we’re about over the cathedrals but we can’t seem to stay away. The Cathêdrale Notre-Dame de la Treille is an interesting combination of the original 13th century architecture and modern elements. Stained glass and new sculptures share space harmoniously. A new section includes thin marble that looks white from the outside but when viewed from the inside is warmly translucent with natural color variations from light to deep browns. 

 

We saw the outside of the Musée de l’Hospice Comtesse and strolled to the Porte de Gand which was one of the original entrances to the town.  With more rain threatening, we found a small grocery store and got dinner supplies and Dermot happily snapped up a hot baguette fresh from the oven. As our train pulled out of the station, it was pouring rain again.

Spring in France sounds fantastic and the flowers are beautiful. But more than once this first week we’ve questioned why we chose to leave the best Florida weather to travel in Europe’s cold and rainy shoulder season. Time will tell. 

Reims and the Champagne Region

On our way from Lille towards Reims, we were traveling near what was the Western front of WWI. The whole area is peppered with memorials and graveyards honoring those who fought and died here. We visited the Canadian National Monument. Though the massive gleaming white monument is undoubtedly a highlight, there’s also a good visitor’s center with poignant personalized stories and artifacts; tunnels and restored trenches; a section of No Man’s Land; and craters and undulating ground created by heavy artillery fire and underground mine explosions. Grass has grown back but much of the 250 acre area is off limits to visitors due to rough terrain and unexploded munitions. It’s too dangerous to mow so sheep graze the site to keep the grass trimmed. Witnessing it is both chilling and leaves you wondering how anyone made it out alive. The French gave the land to Canada in perpituity out of gratitude for their help and sacrifice. 

The nearby Notre Dame de Lorette is a WWI cemetery, church and a ring memorial where the names of all those who fought and died in the Pas de Calais and Calais Nord are carved into the walls. High school age children were visiting with lists of names they searched for.   

As Americans, we aren’t confronted by these daily reminders of war so close to home. These sites both underscore the horrendous tragedy and heavy toll of war.  

From there we headed for Camping Au Bord de l’Aisne where we managed to get stuck in the mud. The camp host had told me to stay on the road but I assumed he meant while driving to the site since camping on the road would block our neighbors. Our campground neighbors all came out offering traction pads and a push but we only managed to dig in deeper. “Welcome to France” one woman said with arms swung wide and a cheerful laugh. We had to be towed out by the camp hosts who reiterated to stay on the paved road - embarassing. 

The campground had pros - fresh pain au chocolate in the morning; and cons - super muddy when we had to stay in the lower grounds where it had flooded and unheated sanitary block. From here we visited Reims and enjoyed poking around a large grocery/sundries store then caught the tram into the city. We visited the cathedral which was where the coronations of most French kings were held. It was huge and somewhat gloomy except where it was illuminated by stained glass windows designed by Marc Chagall. 

Other stained glass illustrated the importance of champagne making to the region. We were disappointed the Gallo-Roman Cryptoporticus (1st & 2nd centuries and probably a covered market) wasn’t open yet but enjoyed the nearby Roman era and medieval structures and gardens. That door was to an abbey and included a tiny door called a “wicket door” photo above. There were also half-timbered houses.

We then set off for the picturesque medieval hilltop city of Laon. 

Chenizelles Gate of Laon

Notre-dame Cathedral is a masterpiece of early Gothic architecture as it featured a center tower that allowed light to flood in and inspired many other cathedrals. I loved the face and symbolic carvings on the medieval baptismal font. 

We lunched at a Crêperie (mine was white asparagus, ham, Emmental cheese and cream) and got a liter of the local cider on tap. The town is encircled by ramparts that were fun to explore and take in the views.

Iceland!

 

Dermot and I squeezed a guided tour onto the end of this trip. We don't normally prefer guided tours, but we couldn't find accommodations on our own. I read that Iceland is "sold out" this summer. The seats in the older model Ford van that carried us over sometimes very rough roads were not kind to Dermot’s back but it was a welcome treat to have an experienced guide do the driving and answer any questions that came to mind. And a lot came to mind. 

My apologies that this post is exceptionally late due to slight illness during and a decided lack of urgency thereafter. This will be a confusing mix of descriptions with a massive photo dump because Iceland is a feast for the eyes.

Link to far too many photos here.

Reykjavik

We were lucky to get to Iceland during a volcanic eruption. The fumes were visible as we drove from the airport and our hotel had a chunk of the fresh lava rock. Though restaurant and bar prices are eye-watering, we enjoyed the fare at an Icelandic restaurant; an upscale food hall with a vibrant atmosphere and varied menu; and, of course, an Irish pub or two. 

Puffins were high on the “must see” list and we booked a boat tour to an island north of Reykjavik where they flock in the hundreds. My photos aren’t good but it was an absolute joy to see them flying with long eel fish streaming from their colorful beaks. Nature needed to make compromises so they could both fly and swim for their suppers so their takeoffs and landings are awkward and they have to flap constantly to stay aloft. They are ridiculously cute to me and it was a thrill to witness. 

July 22: Reykjavik - Hella 

We were so lucky to have Höskuldur Frímannsson guiding our small group of six throughout the golden circle and ring road. He was endlessly patient and generous in driving, educating, entertaining and sharing his love of his country. Our group was entirely composed of people who live in Florida for much of the year so we were bundled up while he was often in short sleeves. Our trip followed the ring road from Reykjavik counterclockwise encircling the entire country except that we bypassed the West Fjords. We had cloudy weather for most of the trip, possibly due to the gases from the eruption blowing back into Reykjavik. Therefore our photos are often dull shades of gray. 

We started with a tour of Reykjavik taking in the fairly bleak architecture then on to Pingvellir where we walked along the valley that formed between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates as they moved apart over the centuries. The deep fissures and rocky cliffs were formidable. Since all the tectonic plates move apart from each other here, the land has been expanding for millennia. From there we visited our first Geyser for a spouting hot spring.

At Gullfoss, massive sheets of water thundered over multiple tiers of rock and covered us in cool mist before dropping into a deep ravine (photo above). 

July 23: Hella - Vik

Seljalandsfoss was a real experience. What can top a huge waterfall? A waterfall you can walk behind to see the landscape from an entirely new viewpoint. It was exhilarating! 

Another highlight for me was at Skogar which included an Open Air museum with houses brought from different places and eras; a Folk Museum with a bit of everything from Icelandic fauna in taxidermy form to spinning wheels; and a Technical Museum tracing the evolution of vehicles and technology. It was fun to duck inside the sod-roofed houses of old and try to imagine eking out a living in this harsh environment. 

Our next waterfall was impressive from two levels. We first climbed up to the top of Skogafoss and were treated to a double rainbow following the water as it fell. The best view of this wide and beautiful waterfall was at ground level - truly impressive. 

Then hiked through scree to Sólhemajökull which is a glacier that has been melting at double the usual speed due to global warming which was saddening. The glacier was streaked with black from volcanic eruptions giving the landscape a dramatic look. 

We drove along the Iceland’s South Shore and were thrilled to see puffins at Dyrholaey. You may think there are a lot of puffin pictures in the album but that’s only fraction of what we took. They were endlessly adorable and so fun to watch I could have stayed for days. 

Next up was Reynisfjara beach with its basalt columns and black sand beach. Wow! The wind was fierce and we were repeatedly warned not to turn our backs anywhere near the ocean lest sneaker waves drag us out to sea. Just one of the ways Iceland can kill you:

10 Ways Iceland can kill you. RS

We spent the night at Hotel Katla which served an incredible buffet dinner. I’m not usually into all-you-can-eat but this one was exceptional. Side note: If you haven’t seen the movie “Katla,” I recommend it (Netflix).

  

July 24: Vik-Glacier Lagoon

We traveled to the Fjadrargljufur Nature Preserve where we hiked along the deep canyon with a waterfall at one end and a river flowing through it. The landscape changes here from the top of the canyon to a smooth grassy slope to the river. Beyond the river was the vast lava field from the Laki volcanic eruption in 1782. The fluoride from that eruption settled on the grass and when the animals ate the grass, the excess fluoride caused them to lose their teeth and wiped out about 80% of the livestock. Twenty percent of the human population of Iceland starved to death thereafter. This area is still desolate with few farms and has since been covered by moss that grows in a mound and makes for miles and miles of lumpy ground. 

We drove past Vatnajokull - Europe’s biggest glacier. There’s a photo in the album but the atmospheric conditions weren’t the best and more news of shrinking glaciers was saddening. Skaftafell National Park gave us the opportunity to check out their exhibits, a film and take a great hike to - you guessed it, another waterfall. Svartifoss was majestic with its cliff of basalt columns.

As we drove to the next hike we pulled up to a farm with some gorgeous Icelandic horses. Noting their small proportions, I called them ponies and our guide reminded me they were full grown horses and calling them otherwise risked hurting their feelings. There is no end to Iceland’s stories of trolls, elves and many other mythical beasts including a water horse, so I made sure to watch what I said thereafter. I once asked if people really still believed in things like elves here and he told the story of an elf place:

A story of Icelandic Elves

We took a hike to the tongue of another glacier, then made our way to Diamond Beach where the black sand provides the perfect background for the scattering of melting icebergs that, with a little imagination, glitter like diamonds. Our day was gray, but the internet will provide much more colorful photos of this place if you search.

The undisputed highlight of the day was the boat ride on Glacier Lagoon (Jokulsarlon) where we cruised between giant icebergs. Was it the milky blue color, the fantastical shapes, or the knowledge that we were only seeing the proverbial “tip of the iceberg” that made this place so magical? I still don’t know, I’m just humbled to have experienced it.  

  

July 25: Glacier Lagoon - Modrudalur

This was a long day of mostly driving along the coastal region of the East Fjords. I was uncomfortably in the grips of a cold and though our driver was sympathetic, there was literally no pharmacy anywhere along our route until the late afternoon. There were often many miles between between farms and I wondered how people maintained social ties being so isolated. There is an extremely limited number of crops that survive in this harsh climate. They have no reptiles or frogs. We noticed the absence of roaming dogs and cats as well. Their sheep, reindeer and horses were imported from Norway hundreds of years ago such that they are now unique in their adaptation to the extreme climate. Icelandic horses are exported and also eaten. I made the terrible mistake of asking how many lambs are allowed to reach adulthood and was shocked at the answer. Our guide then described how the ewes respond when their lambs go missing. Heartbreaking.

We stopped at the town of Egilsstradir where the town’s highlight is a little harbor ringed with giant egg sculptures made of various stone. Our guide had suggested I take a picture of the eggs at the Skaftafell National Park and now proposed we compare the photo to these sculptures to confirm the sculptures replicated the various birds’ egg shapes but our group lacked interest and we all soon returned to the warmth of the van.

We drove over mountainous (rough) roads to the Modrudalur valley, which is the highest inhabited place in the country and the landscape that more closely resembles the surface of the moon than any place I’ve ever seen. We stayed at Fjallakaffi - the unique working farm and guesthouse in the middle of the vast cold and windy desert. We were thrilled to see Artic Fox cubs who played together and disappeared under the boardwalk to reach their den. Though wild, they are being fed by farm staff. The rabbits in the pen nearby looked nervous.

July 26: Modrudalur - Myvatn

Before setting off, we enjoyed a breakfast that included a specialty of the farm: āstarpungar “love balls” which is a fried sweet dough with raisins. I’ll just leave that right there. 

An extremely bumpy road through the desert brought us to the magnificent Dettifoss, the most powerful waterfall in Europe. The pictures don’t do it justice but it’s one of those places where the power of the waterfall was so intense, I felt it in my chest. Glorious! 

Our next stop was Asbyrgi - a horseshoe shaped canyon and lake. It was peaceful and though I’ve forgotten the natural forces that shaped the place, an alternative theory of its creation lifted from Guide to Iceland is: "Given the canyon’s horseshoe shape, legend has it that Odin’s eight-legged steed, Sleipnir, placed one of his feet on the ground here, leaving a deep imprint on the earth, as it sprinted across the sky. Other myths claim that Ásbyrgi is the capital city and true home to Iceland’s ‘hidden people’, the Huldufólk and elves. Many of Iceland’s folk stories revolve around these strange, magical people and the bizarre punishments and plots."

We lunched in Husavik, known for whale-watching trips, before driving to Lake Myvatn, which is chock full of interesting geological and geothermal sites. Paths were studded with piles of rock that steamed, pools of strangely colored water, and bubbling mud pots. Volcanic activity in the area formed caves filled with pools and lava that is still warm almost 30 years after the eruption. Dimmuborgir has a maze of paths to walk and the pseudo craters at Skutustadir surrounded by water made for serene landscapes.

A special treat greeted us at Guesthouse Narfastadir to celebrate one couple’s anniversary - Hakarl (fermented shark) to be washed down with Brennivin, known as “the Black Death of Iceland.” The fermented shark wasn’t as bad as I’d feared and Dermot survived the shot of Brennivin so we counted that as a win.

July 27: Myvatn - Hrutafjodur

By this time I can’t imagine a day without a great waterfall. Godafoss (the waterfall of the Gods) has a very interesting story (see sign photo) of the emergence of the Christian faith in Iceland. 

Next stop was Akureyri where I enjoyed the diversity of plants and flowers in the botanical gardens but didn’t find any hidden people or elves despite the clear signage. This town was very cute with its trash cans dressed as various beasts, massive troll woman and the welcoming LGBTQ rainbows. We visited the charming town on Siglufjoddur and then around the Trollaskagi Peninsula. The Hofsos beach had some unique basalt columns with round centers. Geologists must be in heaven here!

July 28: Hrutafjodur - Snaefellsnes

We continued around the Snaefellsnes peninsula where we visited a basaltic pebble beach unlike anything I’ve ever seen. The coast was breathtaking and we saw many nesting birds clinging to the cliffs at Arnarstapi.

July 29: Snaefellsnes - Reykjavik

Our first stop was a hike to the top of the old volcano Grabrok. We were thankful for the boardwalks that allowed us to get a view from the top without having to scramble on scree. More waterfalls Hraunfossar (Lava Waterfalls) and Barnafossar (Childrens’s waterfalls), but somehow they never lost their charm. Then we visited Deildartunguhver, Europe’s hottest springs. Great for steam facials! We traveled through the Whale Fjord on our way back to Reykjavik.

I’ll say we were pretty tired by the end of each day even though we had a far easier job than our guide who was in his 70’s. It put us to shame. 

Our next stops were London for a few days and home where our long neglected home duties kept us very busy.

  

If you’ve read this far you’re a glutton for punishment and thank you very much.

I’ve no idea where we’ll go next but we’re open for suggestions! 

Wind, Rain and a Change of Plans

 

Dermot atop Cheddar Gorge

This segment of our trip started as planned - a ferry from the quiet Æro Island to the mainland on a windy day and a drive to Hamburg. Our altered plans to fit the rainy weather were altered again by renovations so we covered fewer sights than expected. We marveled at what remains of St. Nikolai’s Cathedral after it was bombed in WWII. The Cathedral was not rebuilt but becomes a “Place of Commemoration . . . The remains commemorate the victims of the ‘Fire Storm’ over Hamburg and the victims of German atrocities in Europe.” 

Click here for our photos.

The two sculptures were added afterwards. “The Ordeal” is a haunting and haunted figure who sits on bricks from a concentration camp which was the final stop for some 10,000 victims. The sign below “Angel on Earth” reads “Take my hand and let me lead you back to yourself.” 

We also strolled and then visited the Elbphilharmonie which is a stunning piece of architecture that I couldn’t manage to get a decent photo of due to its scale, location and the incredibly windy weather.

Our plan was to drive to Brussels with a one night stop in Munster to break up the trip. The wind was ferocious as we drove and we heard a loud thunk on the roof which was followed by the skylight rattling up and down. When we could pull over we couldn’t see any damage so we just reset the handle and drove on. 

“Into each life some rain must fall.” When Ella Fitzgerald and the Ink Spots performed this song they were referring to rain figuratively. But in the middle of the night we had literal rain drip, drip, dripping into our camper. We found a repair shop and they explained that the skylight is two glass pieces and the wind had ripped off the top dome-shaped glass. 😳 We were ecstatic when they quickly fitted a plastic domed replacement because they didn’t have the glass kit in stock. They told us to get the whole thing replaced when we got home. Unfortunately, that night we learned that the temporary fix wasn’t waterproof either. No local shop could fit us in so we made a bee line back to England where we’ve been ever since.

Please excuse the lack of pictures of scenic and interesting places, but maybe this picture of Dermot grilling in rainy England will bring a smile.

We spent rainy days waiting for a repair and exploring Cheddar. Once the repair was done, there wasn’t enough time to fit in more touring so we prepped the van to go into storage, dropped it off in Bristol and spent a few days in London visiting family and taking in a few sights. You really can’t go wrong visiting the British National Museum and we concentrated on Africa, Japan and China this time.

The following day we enjoyed Sea Life. As you can tell from all the pictures, I love a good aquarium and penguins make any day better!

Next stop: Iceland.